Spam Gumbo, Tacos—Even Cheesecake: My Visit to a Festival Saluting America’s Favorite Canned Meat

“You’ll be surprised how many good dishes come out of that stuff.”

Winners of the Isleton Spam Festival take hope the "Spamley Cup."Dave Gilson

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In the winter of 1996, a flood hit Isleton, California. As residents returned to their homes and went through their kitchens, they found that the paper labels on their canned foods had disintegrated. The only identifiable product, thanks to its printed aluminum can, was Spam. For the past 20 years, the town of roughly 800 people on the Sacramento River has commemorated this postdiluvian miracle with an annual Spam Festival.

This year’s event, held on February 18, featured a hands-free Spam eating contest and an uncanned Spam toss. But the centerpiece was the cooking contest. Nearly 20 contestants vied for a chance to get their names inscribed on the Spamley Cup, serving up creations such as Spam tacos, Spam pasta, Spam gumbo, Spam tamales, deep-fried jalapeño Spam on a stick, Spam meat pies, Spamaroni and chesse, Spam jerky (“Sperky”), and Spam cheesecake. “There’s so many different dishes. It’s so versatile, you’ll be surprised how many good dishes come out of that stuff,” said Paul Steele, this year’s Spam King, dressed as a can of a Spam. “You know, believe it or not, Spam ice cream is pretty good!” (Listen to my audio postcard to hear about the festival in the Bite episode below.)

Though you may not want to know how it gets made, there is no denying Spam’s place in American cuisine. Since it introduced Spam in 1937, Hormel has sold more than 8 billion cans of its signature canned ham product. There are now 15 varieties, including Hot & Spicy and a Lite version. Spam is a beloved staple of Hawaiian cooking: The state has the nation’s highest per capita Spam consumption and hosts the annual Waikiki Spam Jam. It’s even gone upscale: San Francisco’s Liholiho Yacht Club serves “house-made Spam”.

As Ayalla A. Ruvio, an assistant professor of marketing at Michigan State University, has noted, Spam has “formed an emotional connection with its consumers, by tapping into American ideals like ingenuity and resourcefulness.” And some of Spam’s appeal stems from its legendary shelf life—in and out of the can. Spam Fest contestant named Gary, who’d prepared a couple of plates of Rocky Mountain Spam sliders (Spam, cheddar cheese, onions, ketchup, pickles, and milk—”I’m not sure where the milk comes from”), recalled: “My mother used to make ’em when we were kids and we were traveling. We’d have them in the car. And we discovered ultimately that they were as good set underneath the car seat for three or four days as when you made them.”

And the winner of this year’s Spam Festival cook-off? Spam Benedict with quail eggs.

 

This year, Isleton, California, held its 20th annual Spam Festival.
 Dave Gilson
Buffalo blue Spamaroni and cheese
Dave Gilson
“You’ll be surprised how many good dishes come out of that stuf,” said Spam King Paul Steele.
Dave Gilson
Rocky Mountain Spam sliders: Just like mom used to make
Dave Gilson

 

Thai chili and jalapeño Spam corndogs, served tailgate-style on an actual tailgate.
Spam cheesecake
Dave Gilson
Spam sliders paired with a nice bottle of red
Dave Gilson
Spam Fest winners get immortalized on the Spamley Cup. 
Dave Gilson

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SIX TRUTHS

Reclaiming power from those who abuse it often starts with telling the truth. And in "This Is How Authoritarians Get Defeated," MoJo's Monika Bauerlein unpacks six truths to remember during the homestretch of an election where democracy, truth, and decency are on the line.

Truth #1: The chaos is the point.

Truth #2: Team Reality is bigger than it seems.

Truth #3: Facebook owns this.

Truth #4: When we go to work, we're in the fight.

Truth #5: It's about minority rule.

Truth #6: The only thing that can save us is…us.

Please take a moment to see how all these truths add up, because what happens in the weeks and months ahead will reverberate for at least a generation and we better be prepared.

And if you think journalism like Mother Jones'—that calls it like it is, that will never acquiesce to power, that looks where others don't—can help guide us through this historic, high-stakes moment, and you're able to right now, please help us reach our $350,000 goal by October 31 with a donation today. It's all hands on deck for democracy.

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